May 2007
What's Inside

As an adventure-travel journalist — a profession that has sent me slogging through gator-filled swamps, hurtling down untamed rivers, and into social situations that crossed the line from adventurous to outright dangerous — there are four words I never thought I’d say: I love spa vacations. For me, the notion of sitting in a comfy chaise lounge, listening to New Age music, and drinking lemon-flavored water prior to a mud wrap seems about as exciting as watching concrete harden. And I’ve met many globetrotters over the years who feel exactly the same way.

But there’s a growing class of spa resorts out there to accommodate those of us whose idea of vacation activities doesn’t typically involve cucumber slices over the eyes or marathon exfoliation treatments.

These “adventure spas,” which couple fluff and buff with rough and tough, are designed for people who can’t bear to lie on a beach while a perfect set of surfable waves are rolling in, or who can’t kick back in a lounge chair and look at the mountains without a hankering to go climb. These spas aim to attract a new type of clientele by simultaneously offering high adventure and soft, luxurious spa treatments — and the approach intrigued me enough to give it a chance.

The plan was to spend two nights and three days at Utah’s Red Mountain Spa, a topnotch adventure resort (and the model for many similar resorts). I would breathe deeply in yoga class instead of huffing and puffing through slot canyons. Rather than spending the night under the stars, I would retreat to a soft bed. As assignments go, it seemed cushy enough — but I’d learned long ago that things are not always what they appear to be.

Dark clouds hung in the afternoon sky as my wife and I checked into Red Mountain Spa on the outskirts of St. George. After being handed a welcome packet with a schedule full of activities — hip-hop aerobics, 30-minute stretching classes, power yoga — we whizzed past sandy grounds studded with yucca plants and a resplendent backdrop of rust-colored cliffs as we were whisked away in a golf cart to our second-floor adobe-style room. After unpacking and changing, we hit the gym, one light terra-cotta building over. Inside, we found a room filled with over a dozen treadmills, at least a ton of free weights neatly arranged along the wall, and all manner of Nautilus machines — enough to offer sufficient resistance to fully fatigue most every muscle in the human body.

A circuit training class was underway. A half-dozen men and women moved from one machine to another and tried dutifully to figure each one out, under the instruction of a muscular, 20-something personal trainer who yelled, “Rotate!” every 5 minutes. Relaxation? Mud slather? These, I would soon discover, must be earned. After a short workout — my wife on the treadmill, me switching around from free weights to Nautilus to other contraptions — we took a brisk walk over to the restaurant, filling up our water bottles at the faucet next to a fully stocked salad bar. There, beside each chafing dish, lay a placard listing the nutritional value of each meal and a plate holding the suggested portion — which was decidedly smaller than what you’d typically get in a restaurant. And dessert? No death-by-chocolate brownies topped with hot fudge here; flourless chocolate cake was served instead.

Thus far, I’d seen no fluffy robes, and the scent of aromatherapy oils was conspicuously absent. As I gathered together a plate of food rife with antioxidants, I heard that the spa would be closed the following morning; an eight-mile, fast-paced hike to the nearby red-rock formations was being offered. This was starting to sound like something I could get used to.

The trend toward adventure spas — places where you’re expected to engage in some form of outdoor activity such as hiking, paddling, or rock climbing before being rewarded a spa treatment — is undoubtedly a step away from the routine at traditional high-end spas, where full-throttle pampering accompanies culinary decadence. By combining alfresco excursions with fitness programs like Pilates, yoga, and muscle conditioning, the spas aim not only to re-energize visitors, but also to appeal to those who might view a standard spa vacation as a bit froufrou.

The concept has caught on to such an extent that almost every high-end resort offers some assortment of adventure-vacation activities. Canyon Ranch’s “Meet the Challenge” package adds biking and hiking to a workout program designed to improve your athletic prowess. The Lake Austin Spa has a wide array of hiking, walking, and kayaking outings — and a “Good Sport Pedicure” for when you’re done. At The Lodge at Woodloch in Hawley, Pennsylvania, a day spent fishing, hiking, rafting, birding, or snowshoeing can be topped off with a deep-tissue therapy massage.

At the Red Mountain Spa, however, the adventure activities are an integral component of the entire experience. An “adventure concierge” recommends and books outings for you. Morning activities almost always involve some type of outdoor exercise, typically a hike suited to your skill level — a good thing, since you can literally walk straight off the property and into a glorious red-rock canyon before you know it. You can also book a climbing guide and scale a rock face just minutes away, or you can grab one of the kayaks resting neatly on a rack and go for a serene paddle. But the emphasis on health and fitness is not pushed to the extreme. While meal portions are suggested, there’s no drill sergeant doling out your ration. Beer and wine are served, so there’s no need to smuggle in libations (which I’ve heard happens at some of the more rigorous adventure spas).

Our eight-mile hike the following morning took us through deep red crevices narrower than an office hallway. We scrambled over smooth boulders and challenged our quads as the trail snaked up hundred-foot elevation gains and the sunlight bathing the canyon revealed its rich colors. A fellow hiker rightly observed, “I just figured the brochure pictures were doctored, but the cliffs really are that red!” Even as our heart rates climbed, we were soothed by the natural beauty that surrounded us.

After lunch, I tried yoga. As I rested on all fours, I watched the woman beside me make her back so straight you’d feel comfortable resting a stack of fine china on it. My back was humped — like a camel’s; my face was beet red, and I let out small grunts in an effort to avoid total collapse. It occurred to me that perhaps I’d overestimated the rigors of my previous outdoor treks — and underrated just how demanding a yoga session could be.

Late in the day, by the time I reached the spa, I was more than ready for some rejuvenation. My calves were tight; my lower back ached from doing reverse sit-ups in the weight room; yoga had fatigued rarely used muscles. My chosen treatment: the Four Hands Massage. I took a sip of lemon water, lay down on my stomach, and started to breathe deeply, further relaxed by ethereal melodies piped in overhead. As I was about to doze off, two massage therapists arrived and proceeded in unison to coax and coddle my weary body from head to toe. By the time they finished, I’d come to the unshakeable conclusion that nature is always better when it’s combined with a little nurture.

Christopher Percy Collier writes for Outside, the New York Times, and other national publications.