Valentine’s Day Sparklers

Now listen up guys, this is important! Time is running out.

Depending on when you’re reading this, you have somewhere between two and six weeks to ace your plans for the Big V. Yes, that’s Valentine’s Day — for her the most important day of the year.

I know this comes as a nasty shock, and I apologize for spoiling the serenity of your flight, but you have to get your head around the fact that because it matters to her, it has to matter to you too.

Plenty of relationships have tanked on St. Valentine’s Day because the guy’s efforts didn’t measure up to expectations.

Do you want to run this risk?

No? Very sensible. And the best way to avoid disaster is to start the evening off with a bottle of fizz. It sets the right celebratory tone and says you know this is important to her. Champagne’s expensive, but don’t let that faze you. There are lots of fine sparkling wines out there from other regions and other countries that rival the prince of bubbly at a far less intimidating price.

France itself produces many delightful examples known as Crémant, the most noteworthy being Crémant d’Alsace. These are the best deals in sparkling wine.

Italy’s prosecco is currently trendy, but unfortunately there are many inferior versions around, watery and insubstantial. But there are many very drinkable offerings too. Don’t look for substance or complexity here — just light, unchallenging bubbles and a modest price.

Cava, from Spain, usually Catalonia, is also in vogue at the moment, and as its exposure grows, so its overall quality is rising. The trick here is to not look for a Champagne imitation, but to accept cava on its own terms — a full-bodied rustic wine with a distinct earthy tone.

California sparklers run the gamut from carbonated dreck to some of the finest bubbly made. Many of the best producers are U.S. subsidiaries of French Champagne houses, so not surprisingly their wines are cham­penoise in style. American producers tend to follow the same path, making sparkling wine of real elegance, even complexity.

What follows is a rundown of my favorite fizz. Pick up one of these, fellas, and ensure your emotional well-being through this challenging time.

Best Bubbles

Chandon Rosé, California
An appealingly complex fizz. Pulls off that apparently contradictory feat sometimes found in rosés of displaying both power and finesse at the same time.
$22

Freixenet Cava Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut, Spain
Round and mellow with a soft, biscuity, yeasty mouthfeel. This is about as polished as cava gets.
$18

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs, California
Crisp and pure, almost ethereal in its delicacy. Elusive as early morning mist, and just as beguiling.
$28

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs, California
Rich and aromatic, this is pinot noir on fine display. Full and pungent, a meaty sparkler that works well with food.
$20

J Brut Rosé, California
Delicate and refined with a distinctively aromatic bite on the finish. A superstar rosé, full of intense floral elements, a tad off-dry.
$28

Jacob’s Creek Moscato Rosé, Australia
If she has a penchant for sweeter wines, this is a sure way to her heart, and your future well-being.
$13

J.J. Vincent Crémant de Bourgogne Brut, France
This aristocratic bottle of bubbles displays an impressive haughtiness and will surprise even the most demanding Champagne aficionado.
$23

Juvé y Camps Reserva de la Familia, Brut Nature, 2007, Spain
It’s easy to see why this is the cava of choice for Spain’s royal family. With its earthy, punchy assertiveness, it’s a fine expression of the wine’s distinctive qualities.
$17

Laetitia Brut Rosé, 2007, California
Delightfully accessible. All strawberries-and-cream voluptuousness. Not as challenging as many alternatives.
$28

Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut, Blanc de Blancs, France
Shows why Crémant d’Alsace is the clear winner when it comes to value for money in sparkling wine. This family-owned estate was founded in 1425, and 18 generations later it still produces some of the best wines in Alsace.
$20

Mionetto Il Prosecco, Italy
A fresh, crisp citrus quality is given weight by the charming floral notes and hints of peaches and apricots.
$12

Mionetto Sergio Rosé, Italy
Despite its highly suspect bright scarlet color, this is a surprisingly balanced and grown-up wine. A touch of cherry cola is redeemed by the lovely fresh strawberry bite on the finish.
$19

Roederer Estate Brut, California
Roederer is the class act among California sparklers. The wines come from the Anderson Valley north of Sonoma County, and the cooler climate gives them a mineral-infused intensity rarely found elsewhere.
$23

Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava, Spain
Terrific value. Muscular and rustic, this is not a polished fizz but is extremely well made and displays an authentic earthiness.
$10

Taittinger Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé, California
Fills the mouth with a rich and creamy mousse. Don’t be distracted by the pale salmon color; there’s real structure and power behind the suave exterior.
$35

Vilarnau Brut Cava, Spain
Don’t expect Champagne-like delicacy from cava — the best of them, like this, are country cousins, packed with robust flavor even if they lack a certain urbane polish.
$15

Voveti Prosecco, Italy
As pretty as it is pure, it leaves an impression of crystalline clarity on the palate. I also love the bottle.
$18

Willm Crémant d’Alsace Brut, France
Punches way, way above its weight, or perhaps I should say price. Far more polished and complex than its competitors, it will appeal to more sophisticated palates.
$14

Nick Passmore writes from New York City. His take on wine has appeared in Forbes, Saveur, Town & Country, and Wine Enthusiast, among others. He hosts nickonwine.com.